The day my brother left I got food poisoning and I stayed an extra day in Huaraz to recover from that. The next couple of weeks I’d be cycling alone to Bolivia, where Fien will be coming to join me. For this section there’s the famous Peru Divide. A bikepacking trail that takes you to remote places and high (up to 4900m) passes.
The sound of silence
Getting out of Huaraz was easier than getting in. Traffic wasn’t that bad and gradually I was climbing my way up to more remote places. The first challenge was a mountain pass up to 4800 m by the Nevado Pastoruri. It took me a while to get up there, without seeing anyone else. The weather got colder and an occasional shower of hail hit me. Finding camp spots was easy, no one around and water everywhere. The silence was deafening, but the solitude felt good. Perfect to process everything from the past weeks. I felt alone yet alive, no distractions, just me and my thoughts and feelings.
The long shortcut
After the very long descent I thought about making a “small” variation to the Peru divide. I saw that the Huayhuash trek is nearby and I cycled in the rain to Tupac Amaru, yes that’s a village here! From there it’s hike-a-bike up to the national park. I hoped that many sections would be rideable but I was wrong! Mostly I’m carrying and pushing the bike up steep rocky sections, but enjoying the amazing views. It takes me about 2 very hard days to get back on the normal circuit. I even had to climb over 2 fences and convince a guard of a dam to let me through… Just before the last mountain pass at about 4700m I end up in a storm. It’s always scary to be in your tent, when there’s lightning and thunder. After an hour it settles down and there’s a fresh layer of snow around.
Back on track
Back on the normal track of the Peru divide it became easier to ride again. Not easy at all with all the up and downhill on gravel roads, but at least I could ride my bike. After an hour riding in the rain I arrive in Parqiun, a village before a very long climb. When I arrive I see another cyclist on the main plaza. Cedric is a cyclist from France heading the same direction. There’s a couple of locals drinking because it’s Sunday. They’re really nice and offer their help and support. I get my dinner and go to sleep in the park, the next day I’m expecting a long climb.
Read more in part 2
