After weeks of riding through the remote heart of the Andes, I finally approached the end of the toughest part of my route across Peru. From Huaraz to Cusco, the road tested my legs and patience, endless climbs, freezing nights, and thin air above 4000 meters. But little by little, I could feel the rhythm returning, and the mountains start to feel like home again.
The top of the hill
After about two weeks of cycling from Huaraz, I reached Huancavelica. This was almost the end of the main difficulties. Just before arriving, I crossed one of the last 4800m passes on my bike. I realised that this might be the last + 4800m pass I’ll ever do on a bicycle in my life… so I told myself: you better enjoy it! Although it’s not easy, I’ve learned over many years of adventuring to appreciate the things around me, even while suffering.
A cold on top
In Huancavelica, I took a day off. The many hard days of cycling and a cold that didn’t seem to end forced me to rest for a while. Still, I knew the journey wasn’t finished yet. The endless up and downhills weren’t over, and I knew that until Cusco, it would still be quite a struggle. Despite my cold, I was making good progress on the bike.
Huancavelica felt strange and nice at the same time. There were many food options and a comfortable bed, but it was also strange to suddenly see so many people again. I felt like a stranger after weeks on remote roads and through small villages. It’s a feeling that returns often the transition from solitude to a busy town always takes some adjustment.
A not so bumpy ride
After my rest day, I felt motivated again to tackle the last hard stretch to Cusco. It was still a long way with plenty of elevation gain, but at least most of it was on asphalt roads. I feared there would be a lot of traffic, but in the end it was better than expected. Except for the part just before Ayacucho, that was horrible.
Mostly, riding here is good, but when I see how people drive, it can feel as if they have no sense of danger. It frustrates me to see that people are reckless not only with their own lives but also with those of others. The contrast with the peaceful countryside couldn’t be bigger. Add many aggressive dogs along the way, and you’re in for a stressful ride now and then. You really have to stay alert all the time.
Cruising along
Still, despite some obstacles and (maybe thanks to) a few personal challenges, I made steady progress toward Cusco. More and more, I found myself enjoying the ride again. I felt freer in my head and stronger every day. One day, while cycling up to a 4200m mountain pass, I felt like I could keep pushing hard all the way to the top. That feeling of endless energy is amazing and I had really missed it.
Now in Cusco, I feel my body is ready for the next part, and I’m definitely getting into shape for the mountain to come. I’m taking a few days off to recover, as I still have a bit of a cough. The good news is that Steven is joining me until the end of October on the bike. We’ve done several cycling trips together already, so I’m really looking forward to sharing the road with him again.
By the end of the month, Fien will join as well, so I’m feeling very confident that I’ll soon be physically and mentally ready to climb the 6th of the Secutec Seven Summits!
But first: rest, relax, sightseeing, and maybe a bit of rock climbing too…
Reaching Cusco feels like a small victory, a pause between two big chapters. The road from Huaraz tested my patience, my lungs, and my legs, but it also reminded me how much I love this rhythm of moving every day. Soon, the focus will shift to the mountain, and the next stage of this journey begins. For now, I’m enjoying the calm before the climb.
Many thanks to my sponsors who make this crazy dream possible ! Secutec has just extended their sponsorship, since 2016 I’m having the best sponsor I could imagine. They celebrated their 20th anniversary a couple of weeks ago and proud to be part of the team!
